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Fire fought at night when the temp was 25 below zero.
Only one side of the building remains standing.
Hasselblad 500CM 50mm Distagon.
Kodak Tri X at 200. Developed D76.
Print on Agfa Portriga Rapid. Developed two bath method Ansco 120 / 130.
Toned with gold chloride for permanence.
wow! The nice!
wow! The ice!
outstanding :) trix+d76 seem
outstanding :) trix+d76 seem to keep unbeatable :)
Tri-X and D-76
Thanks for the comment.
I've been using this for the past 35 years. I see that some photographers like to try a range of the latest and allegedly greatest fine grain or you can push this film to 12,000 ISO with wonder developer X-100. The worst thing I believe one can do to a beautiful full range film is expose it at ISO's that are out of this world.
The best advice I can pass along is find a film and developer combination you like and stick with it and take the time to learn what it will and won't do. For me that has always been Tri-X and D-76 1 to 1 dilution. If you are interested in making the finest full range prints you can I HIGHLY suggest "The New Zone System Manual" by Minor White, Richard Zakia, Peter Lorenz. Not to be confused with the small yellow cover one by Minor White. That one is a nightmare to understand.
I hate to use Ansel Adams as an example, however it seems he's all most people of quality B&W imagery. The reason his prints look the way they do is no accident. It begins with the negative. So, if you have access to a darkroom buy 10 rolls of Tri-X a couple of one gallon mixes of D-76 a box of paper and get to work. After learning to control the tonal range of your negative with this method you'll be filling the waste basket a whole lot less with a greater keeper print success rate. I hate wasting materials. They have gotten too expensive.
And now a word about printing paper. It seems that there are fewer and fewer manufactures of a quality paper in the world. This really sucks! So you'll have to use Ilford. It's not bad, just not my preference. If you're going to print fiber base paper glossy surface is the choice. It shows the most detail over mat or semi mat.
If you prefer resin coated I recommend a pearl rather than the glossy because it's too glossy. Resin coated has its advantages as well as drawbacks. It develops faster, washes faster, and drys in air FLAT! Fiber base develops slower, takes hours to wash, and dries with a curl that has to be flattened. For now stick with RC.
Don't get me wrong, I do digital, but when I do my personal portfolio work it's film.
If you're up for it you'll learn a skill that not many possess and your prints will be stunning.
Have fun and post some more photographs.
PS: Time Life back in the 70's and 80's had a series of books called The Library of Photography. Check out the volumes "Light and Film" and "The Print". You'll enjoy the photos too.
Very impressed, not living
Very impressed, not living somewhere that experiences -25 too often this is a subject that I had never really thought about but of course burned out building would have ice all over them after the firefighters have left. It makes for an unusual and very effective image.
Cold
Thanks for your comment.
Well tonight is not too bad only about 15 however it's supposed to be going down to between -5 to -20 over the next five days.
If it's around -20 in the morning I'll get the bubble blowing soap out and have some fun.
Cheers!